This has required quite a bit of 'figuring out' time.

I didn't want to use the normal tiller system mainly because I didn't want to have the 'tie bar' taking up a lot of space on the aft deck.  This will become more apparent over the next couple of weeks as the aft area starts to be assembled.

Also, I wanted to use a heavy duty auto-pilot.   The one I opted for also recognizes wind shifts like a wind vane if you apply that setting.   I know that auto-pilots can be notoriously unreliable for long ocean passages if they are not spec'ed correctly.   But, if they are they can be perfectly reliable.

One of the issues that can cause problems with auto-pilots is if there is to much slack in the rudder tiller arms.  Because the Wharram's rudders are lashed there is that potential for slackness so we have overcome that by making up a locating pin at the top of the rudder and another lower.  I am still using the Wharram lashings as I think they are excellent, so hopefully this will enable the best of both worlds.

The tiller coming off the rudder to the hydraulic steering ram will  be in stainless and we will make up a fitting for a manual tiller that will be stored below for use in the event of an steering failure.

I decided rather than try to use us a lot of space down  below for a chart table that I would set up a desk for my laptop.  So, we built one out of cherry with a lift up lid and with built in AC power points in the cupboard beside it.   To the left of the desk the Icom SSM with the email modem will be built in so I will be able to download weather charts etc.   Also, the computer will be able to connect to the lithium batteries and assess at all times the status of each battery cell.

I am building in a larger adjustable cockpit table which will also double as a dining table.  So, if I need to spread out a paper chart I will still have the space. 

If you have been following my posts you will remember that I decided to use the Torqueedo electric motors instead of the ones from Re-E-Power.

One of the challenges of using these was that they are in an outboard configuration.   One of the things I wanted to avoid was the use of a box to house the outboard which can cause shaking and noise when being hit by waves underneath the wingdeck.   Additionally I have always felt that the props on the outboards were not submerged low enough and would therefore be prone to cavitation.

So, what we did is remove the lower motor part of the Torqueedo and throw away the rest of it (except the controllers).   We built an extended leg out of aluminium which you can see on the photos and made up a stainless steel bracket/hinge underneath the beam.

We will now build a couple of 'arms' out from the lower part of the leg which will fit into a slot on the side of the hull.   Just above that we will put another block with a pulley and using a jam cleat and spectra room I should be able to easily raise and lower it from the cockpit.   Still have to yet prove the theory but it should work fine.  I will know soon.

The plus with this system (if it works) is that the motors will tuck under that wingdeck quite nicely out of the way of most of the green water.   Also, when they are in the down position they are deep enough to remove the risk of cavitation.  The below photo gives an idea of where they will sit.

Most of the hardwood railings have now been fitted to the lower hulls.

The portlights have also been fitted.

All the inserts for the pad eyes, the cleats and fairleads have also been fitted in the hull decks along with the staunchion pads for the aft railings.

Because most of the electrical and plumbing work in the hulls is now complete the final painting for the deck should be done by the end of next week.   I am looking forward to that as we will be able to then fit all the hatches, dorades and other deck fittings.

We had to take out the main hatch surrounds done by Raoul in Thailand as there is no way they would have been water tight.   These have been rebuilt. 

This is now progressing well.   The converters, inverters and the lithium phosphate batteries are all fitted.   These are mainly in the under seat compartments on the starboard side and one of the compartments on the port side.

The compartments are completely watertight and we have an air duct coming through in inlet underneath the console and exiting out the aft area.   A bilge blower is being installed to maintain a good airflow and prevent any heat build up.

The converters are military grade and I had them custom built by the supplier who builds them for the NZ army.  Then I had them fully sealed into a 316 stainless housing.   I am confident that the electrical system will be pretty well trouble free, nonetheless there is a degree of redundancy built in.

These were 'dry fitted' today.  Haven't been varnished yet.   Had a problem figuring out where to put a paper towel holder.   Ended up deciding to put a rail back under the top tread.  It will be out of the way and still keep dry.   Still within easy reach from the galley.

The bench top should be fitted within the next day or two along with the salt and fresh water faucets for the sink.  The fresh water will be pressurised but the salt water will be sourced direct through a valve/skin fitting below the sink using a hand pump faucet.

These will be followed by the hardwood rub rails over the next few days.   We ended up not using the timber which Raoul the boat builder in Thailand sent with the hulls.   It was knotty and not up to standard.  I am looking forward to having them fitted.  Beginning to feel like it is getting close now.

This photo shows the view aft if you were sitting on the berth.   The desk with a lift up lid is being built at the moment.  It will run across the bulkhead from the lower fiddle.